Watersmeet Circular Walk | A Sheltered Winter Woodland Route

When winter winds whip across Exmoor’s open moorland, there’s one walk that offers shelter, drama, and pure magic in equal measure: Watersmeet. Tucked into a steep, wooded valley where the East Lyn River meets Hoar Oak Water, this National Trust treasure provides the perfect escape for walkers seeking beauty without the bite of exposed moorland.

The ancient oak woodland creates a natural canopy, sheltering you from winter weather whilst the rivers rush and tumble over moss-covered boulders below. Whether you’re visiting on a crisp, frosty morning or a moody, mist-shrouded afternoon, Watersmeet transforms into something magical during the colder months.

This guide covers everything you need to know for a winter walk at Watersmeet, including route options, practical tips, refreshment stops, and our handpicked selection of cosy cottages nearby.

1. About Watersmeet

Watersmeet is one of Exmoor’s most beloved natural landmarks. Located in the dramatic valley below Lynmouth, it marks the meeting point of the East Lyn River and Hoar Oak Water – two fast-flowing streams that cascade through ancient oak woodland before merging in a swirl of white water.

The area has been managed by the National Trust since 1934, preserving one of the finest stretches of ancient oak woodland in the South West. The Victorian fishing lodge at the confluence now serves as a charming tea room (open seasonally) and a perfect mid-walk rest stop.

Image Credit: Neville Stanikk

2. Why Walk Here in Winter

While many Exmoor walks become challenging in winter – exposed moorland, muddy tracks, and biting winds – Watersmeet offers a completely different experience. Here’s why it’s the ideal choice for a winter outing:

Sheltered Woodland

The deep valley and mature oak canopy provide natural protection from wind and rain. Even on blustery days, the paths remain relatively calm, making this one of the most comfortable winter walks on Exmoor.

Dramatic Water Levels

After winter rain, the rivers run high and fast. The confluence becomes a spectacular display of rushing water, with the East Lyn River thundering over rocks and cascading through narrow gorges. It’s a completely different experience from the gentle summer flows.

Atmospheric Beauty

Winter transforms the woodland into something magical. Morning mist rises from the water, frost sparkles on moss-covered branches, and the bare trees reveal hidden views of the valley. Wildlife is more visible too – look out for dippers bobbing on riverside rocks and grey wagtails darting along the water’s edge.

Firm Paths

Unlike open moorland, the rocky woodland paths drain well and rarely become the muddy quagmires you’ll find elsewhere. The well-maintained National Trust paths provide good footing year-round.

Fewer Crowds

While summer brings crowds to this popular spot, winter offers peaceful solitude. You might have the entire trail to yourself, with only the sound of rushing water and birdsong for company.

3. Watersmeet Circular Walk Route

This circular walk starts from the National Trust car park and takes you through the heart of the Watersmeet valley. Follow this route for the best winter walking experience:

Stage 1: Descend to Watersmeet (0.5 miles)

From the car park, follow the signed path down into the valley. The descent is steep in places but well-surfaced. As you drop down, the sound of rushing water grows louder and the temperature drops noticeably – the valley is always cooler than the surrounding hills.

Stage 2: The Confluence (Watersmeet House)

Arrive at the Victorian fishing lodge where the two rivers meet. This is the heart of Watersmeet. In winter, stand on the bridge and watch the turbulent waters merge – after heavy rain, this is genuinely awe-inspiring. The tea room may be closed in winter months, but the views are open year-round.

Stage 3: Follow the East Lyn (1 mile)

Continue along the riverside path following the East Lyn River upstream (away from Lynmouth). The path winds through ancient oak woodland, crossing small streams and passing dramatic rock formations. In winter, look for icicles forming on the cliff faces and frozen spray on riverside boulders.

Stage 4: Climb to Myrtleberry Cleave (0.5 miles)

At the signed junction, take the path climbing up through Myrtleberry Cleave. This is the steepest section but rewards you with elevated views through the trees. The oak woodland here is particularly atmospheric in winter, with gnarled branches silhouetted against the sky.

Stage 5: Return via the High Path (1 mile)

The high-level path brings you back towards the car park with occasional glimpses of the valley below. The going is easier here, with gentler gradients. Complete the circuit by descending back to your starting point.

4. What You’ll See

Watersmeet is a feast for the senses in any season, but winter brings its own special magic:

The Rivers

After winter rainfall, both the East Lyn and Hoar Oak Water run high and fast. Watch for:

• White water rapids tumbling over rocks
• Deep, dark pools with swirling currents
• Waterfalls and cascades normally hidden in summer
• Morning mist rising from the warmer water

Ancient Woodland

The oak woodland is designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI). In winter, you’ll notice:

• Moss and lichen covering every surface in vibrant greens
• Bare branches revealing the woodland’s ancient structure
• Ferns still green against the winter backdrop
• Occasional holly trees adding festive colour

Wildlife

Winter is actually excellent for wildlife spotting as vegetation thins:

• Dippers – small birds bobbing on rocks, even diving underwater
• Grey Wagtails – bright yellow flash along the riverside
• Kingfishers – occasionally seen flashing past
• Grey Herons – patient hunters in the shallows
• Red Deer – sometimes visible on the valley sides

Historic Features

The walk passes several points of interest:

• Watersmeet House – Victorian fishing lodge, now National Trust tea room
• Old Lime Kilns – remnants of past industry
• Fishing Pools – traditionally used for salmon and trout

Image Credit: Neville Stanikk

5. Practical Information

Getting There

By Car: Follow the A39 to Lynmouth, then take the road signed to Watersmeet (approximately 1.5 miles inland). The National Trust car park is well-signed.

Parking: National Trust car park at Watersmeet (EX35 6NT). Free for National Trust members; pay & display for others. The car park can get icy in winter – arrive prepared.

By Bus: The Exmoor Coaster serves Lynmouth in summer months. In winter, you’ll need private transport.

Winter Opening

The National Trust paths are open year-round, 24/7. The car park is usually open, though check for closures during severe weather. Watersmeet House tea room has reduced winter hours – check the National Trust website before visiting if you’re counting on refreshments.

Accessibility

The terrain is not suitable for wheelchairs or pushchairs. The paths are narrow, rocky in places, and include steep sections. Good mobility is required.

6. Refreshments & Warming Up

After a winter walk, you’ll want somewhere warm to thaw out. Here are your options:

Watersmeet House Tea Room

The National Trust tea room in the Victorian fishing lodge serves hot drinks, cakes, and light lunches. Winter hours are limited – typically weekends only from November to February. Check ahead before relying on this for your post-walk warm-up.

Lynmouth Village (1.5 miles)

Head down to Lynmouth for more reliable year-round options:

• The Rising Sun Hotel – historic inn with log fires and local ales
• Esplanade Fish Bar – traditional fish and chips
• Various cafes – hot drinks and cream teas

Lynton (2 miles)

The clifftop village of Lynton offers additional options, connected to Lynmouth by the famous Cliff Railway (water-powered, operating since 1890).

7. Cosy Cottages Nearby Watersmeet Circular Walk

Complete your winter Watersmeet experience by staying in one of our handpicked cottages nearby. Each offers the perfect base for exploring the Lyn Valley and returning to warmth and comfort after your walk.

Browse All Lynmouth & Lynton Cottages →

8. Winter Walking Tips

Make the most of your Watersmeet winter walk with these essential tips:

Frequently Asked Questions

Plan Your Watersmeet Winter Walk

Watersmeet offers something truly special in winter – the drama of rushing rivers, the peace of ancient woodland, and the satisfaction of a proper walk without battling exposed moorland conditions. Add in the promise of a cosy cottage waiting at the end, and you have the perfect Exmoor winter day.

Whether you’re visiting for a day trip or staying for a longer winter break, Watersmeet should be on your list. The sheltered valley, atmospheric scenery, and excellent paths make it one of the best cold-weather walks in the South West. For more ideas, see our Top 10 Exmoor Walking Spots.